Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Memorial Day Weekend Special, Day 2: Everybody Go Surf!

I decided that I was going to take a little running break over the three day weekend. But, I replaced it with other forms of body torture, I mean, cross training. So today, you lucky folks get three posts for the price of one as I recount each day.

Payback is a bitch. heh. Whee! On day 2 in San Luis Obispo, We decided to venture to Pismo Beach: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pismo_Beach , a renowned surfing beach and key location for many surfing competitions. Now I don't claim to be a good surfer, but I was definitely more crazy about surfing before I got into running. Nowadays, I seldom hit the waves because running takes precedence. But, since this was my running vacation, I decided to revisit my watery playground.

As a surfing enthusiast, I wasn't about to let my climbing enthusiast girlfriend get out of surfing that day, especially after what she put me through the day before. Unfortunately, surfing in 50 degree water with 3-5 foot waves is a hard sell to a beginner (Raquel) who's averse to any sort of cold weather. Luckily, I'm personally used to these conditions because I learned how to surf in Northern California, where these are normal conditions. So under these circumstances, I have to give her credit for sticking it out as long as she did: 10 minutes. She did manage to submerge her body in the water and allow me to push her in on one wave. And then....she didn't come back. Like I said folks, extreme sports aren't for every couple.

In any case, I had a grand time hitting the waves. To me, those were optimum conditions: not too crowded, frequent sets, and slow rolling long waves to ride all the way to shore. Surfing gives me the ultimate sense of freedom. Growing up in Hawaii, the ocean seemed like the big blue portal to the outside world. And just playing on it makes me feel like I'm straddling the link between Hawaii (who I was) and the mainland (who I have become). I am not whole without either part, and surfing on the link allows me time to reflect and remember that.

All in all, it was a great day of contemplation and nature appreciation. Well...that and the ocean kicked my ass with the cardio, core, and balance workout it gave me.

Stay tuned for Day 3...

2 comments:

Unknown said...

I love this post! That metaphor about the ocean being between your past and your present is just gorgeous.

Mayumi said...

you are RUGGED!!!

heart you.